Easy-to-read display (sometimes in color) that provides the following information:

• No stop limits
  • Depth
  • Time
  • No stop time remaining
  • Ascent rate
  • Emergency decompression
  • Previous dive information
• Low battery warning
• Enriched air compatible

• Air integrated to display how much air is in your tank. Certain models connect via a hose to your regulator. Some have a quick disconnect. Others receive air supply information from a transmitter on the regulator first stage.
• Digital dive watch and computer in one small unit
• Automatic or manual adjustment for altitude diving
• Replaceable or rechargeable batteries
• Multiple gas computers for technical diving or some tec diving computers have a CCR (Closed-Circuit Rebreather) mode.
• Interface with your laptop/regular computer so you can download your dive data.
• Electronic compass or built-in thermometer.
• Self-adjusting decompression models
• Dot matrix screens with menus that allow you to play games to pass the time at safety or decompression stops
• Mask display that allows you to glance at critical dive information.

There are many dive computer choices and you can find the right one with a little help from a dive professional at your local PADI Dive Center or Resort.

1. Ask yourself – What type of diving do I do now and plan to do in the future? and What dive computer works with my current equipment, or what complete equipment package includes the type of computer I want?
2. Look at dive computers with features that match your dive style and equipment setup. Evaluate:
   • Can you clearly read the data with your mask on?
   • Does the data display make sense to you – do you prefer numbers, or do you like graphics or charts?
   • Do you understand how to get the dive information you need?
3. Don’t hesitate investing in a good dive computer. Get what you want now and go scuba diving – that’s the point.

1. Start by reading the instruction booklet. Push all the buttons and check out each function. Set a few preferences, such as time and date, metric or imperial, fresh or salt water, etc.
2. Rinse your dive computer in fresh water as soon as possible after each use. Keep it out of direct sunlight, especially the display. Protect it from being damaged or dropped. Store it in a cool, dry place.
3. Change or recharge your dive computer’s battery as described by the manufacturer.

The PADI Divemaster course teaches you to be a leader and take charge of dive activities. Through knowledge development sessions, waterskills exercises and workshops, and hands-on practical assessment, you develop the skills to organize and direct a variety of scuba diving activities. Topics and practical workshops include:

• The role and characteristics of the PADI Divemaster
• Supervising dive activities and assisting with student divers
• Diver safety and risk management
• Divemaster conducted programs and specialized skills
• Business of diving and your career
• Awareness of the dive environment
• Dive setup and management
• Mapping an open water site
• Conducting dive briefings
• Organizing a search and recovery project and a deep dive
• Conducting a scuba review and skin diver course
• Assisting with Discover Scuba Diving and leading Discover Local Diving programs

Your instructor may also offer the PADI Deep Diver and Search and Recovery Diver specialty diver courses along with your divemaster training to help you meet all requirements and to broaden your abilities.

You may be able to get college credit for the Divemaster course – ask your instructor.

As a dive professional, you’ll want to have all your basic scuba equipment, including a dive computer, a dive knife, and at least two surface signaling devices. During practical skills exercises, like underwater mapping and search and recovery, you’ll use a compass, floats, marker buoys, lift bags and slates. Your PADI Instructor may suggest additional gear that will be useful throughout your diving career.

Check with your local dive center to get advice about everything you’ll need as a dive pro.

Sign up for Divemaster Online – PADI’s eLearning option – to start now. You can work through eight knowledge development sections using a web-based system that lets you learn at your own pace. You also have access to an online version of the Divemaster Manual for reference during and after the course.

Another option is to study by reading the Divemaster Manual and watching the Divemaster Video (a book and DVD package). Visit your local PADI Dive Center or Resort to enroll in the course and get your Divemaster Crew-Pak, which also includes other reference materials – like the PADI Instructor Manual and The Encyclopedia of Recreational Diving – that you’ll need during the course.

• Counterlung – A bag that expands when you exhale and contracts when you inhale.
• Valves – Direct gas circulation in one direction through the breathing hose assembly, so your exhaled breath goes through a chemical scrubber that removes waste CO2.
• Mouthpiece – Closes and also connects to the bailout valve (BOV), which is an open-circuit second stage regulator hooked up to a cylinder with breathing gas for emergencies.
• Gas supply – Feeds into the gas flow loop to replenish the oxygen you consume, and to increase the counterlung volume as needed.
• Oxygen sensor – An electronic module that gas passes through after the chemical scrubber.

Type R rebreathers, specifically suited for recreational, no stop diving, also have these characteristics:

• Use pre-packed scrubber canisters – you don’t have to mix the chemicals.
• Will not operate or will warn you if the canister is missing.
• Provide electronic prompts for the predive check.
• Provide automatic set point control.
• Estimate scrubber duration.
• Have warnings for low or closed gas supply, low battery life, high or low PO2, etc.
• Include a “black box” data recorder function in the electronics.
• Have a display warning system in your line-of-sight during normal diving.

The first step before diving with your rebreather is to thoroughly read the manufacturer’s literature and always have it handy to reference. Set-up and post-dive procedures can vary between different models. You practice setting up your rebreather during training, referencing the manufacturer’s literature, but should have the literature available each time you dive, just in case you need to double check anything.

Rebreather service must be done by a manufacturer-authorized technician, typically annually, but again refer to the manufacturer’s literature. Be sure to keep good records regarding all the service and maintenance for your rebreather.

• BCDs (buoyancy control devices) used for sidemount are usually wing style with a harness and different tank attachment points than backmount BCDs.
  • Tanks attach at the hip and on the upper chest, at armpit level on either side.
  • Most configurations use an elastic system (bungee, tubing, etc.) to hold tanks in place, or clips that attach to chest D-rings.
• One or two regulators with SPGs (submersible pressure gauges) to match the tanks, and at least one must have a low pressure inflator hose that hooks into your BCD.

There are many sidemount diving systems available and your PADI Sidemount Instructor or Tec Sidemount Instructor can give you with the best advice regarding which sidemount rig will work for you. Here are a few considerations:

1. Where you dive and what kind of tanks you use affect how much lift you need from your BCD.
2. You need to be able to easily and comfortably handle all clips and attachments. If you’ll wear thick gloves while sidemount diving, it’s a good idea to try putting on and taking off tanks with your gloves on. If you plan to boat dive with your sidemount system, make sure you’ll be able to quickly secure and release tanks on a moving platform or in choppy conditions.

To keep your sidemount equipment in good shape, follow the three general maintenance procedures:

1. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use – both the outside and inside or your BCD.
2. Let it dry completely – out of direct sunlight as much as possible.
3. Partially inflate the BCD and store in a cool and dry place. Don’t leave weights in the harness weight pockets.

• Sturdy design made from heavy-duty fabric with reinforced stitching to withstand pointy, heavy dive gear and to survive being wet, sometimes for days.
• Strong and corrosion-proof fasteners and hardware, like zippers, snaps, clips and handles, that can endure the stress of dive equipment and the dive environment.
• Weight-supporting straps that are heavily reinforced, or pass all the way around the bag so they won’t tear under load.

Scuba Gear Bag Styles

In addition to your main big bag, which will either be a backpack style, roller style or duffel bag, you may want these other bags:

• Mesh bags – small, medium or large, both duffel and backpack styles.
• Padded regulator bag – not only protects your regulator and gauges while in your big bag, but allows you to carry your regulator separately while traveling.
• Dry bags – small, medium or large for all the other things you bring and want to keep dry – towel, log book, wallet, etc.

• Wheels that allow you to roll down the dock to the boat or glide through the airport.
• Backpack straps that let you haul it on your back, leaving your hands free to carry other items.
• Pockets, both internal and external, for special items like fins; even pockets that detach so you can carry items separately when desired.
• Drain holes or mesh areas to let out excess water.

A good dive bag is an investment that should last for years, so choose one that will fit your expanding dive interests while protecting your equipment.

1. Start by looking at the largest bags first at your PADI Dive Center or Resort. Pull them around if they have wheels; put them on your back if they have backpack straps. If the big bags feel okay, then check out the different features.
2. Evaluate each bag’s features and imagine where your equipment will fit in the bag. Actually, it would be ideal to try packing your equipment in a bag, but if it’s not with you, ask if you can pack similar items. Think about how easy it is to get items in and out.
3. Choose the best bag based on the features that appeal to you. Be sure to also check the warranty.
4. Consider getting a mesh bag, padded bag or dry bag, so that you have all the bags you need for your next dive trip.

The key to getting the most out of your gear bag is to pack well. Pack the items you need last on the bottom and what you need first on the top. For air travel, make sure breakable items, like your mask, are well padded (wetsuits make good padding).

• Locally recognized – There are two recognized dive flags – a red flag with a white diagonal stripe, and the blue-and-white pennant tail Alpha flag. Know which flag to fly in your local area.
• Staff or pole – If on a float, your flag needs to be high enough on a staff so vessels can see it above waves or chop. A dive flag flying on a boat should be on a pole in a prominent place.
• Float – Needs to be buoyant enough to hold the flag and staff, and stable enough that it doesn’t flip over easily. Floats range from simple inflatable buoys, to torpedo shaped floats for easy towing, to heavy-duty surface support rings.
• For towing a float, you’ll need a line and reel to manage the line.
• To anchor a float, you’ll need an auger, weights or line for tying it to an object (not coral).

• Flag stiffener – A stiffener, often simple wire frames, hold the flag open so it’s clearly visible.
• Inner tube with fabric cover – This style float has good buoyancy and provides a pouch to put accessories in.

1. Find out what the locally recognized flag is by visiting your local PADI Dive Shop or Resort. Also, know if local laws stipulate when you must fly a dive flag, how close you must stay to it, and how far vessels must stay away. However, don’t assume boaters will follow the law – always be cautious.
2. Consider what float size and style is appropriate for the type of diving you do.
3. Think about how you will tow or anchor your float. There are a variety of line and reel options, plus different methods of attaching the line to the float, such as D-rings, handles or loops.

• Rinse your flag, float, line and reel in fresh water after each use and store it in a dry place, out of direct sunlight.
• Check your line regularly for worn spots and replace it as necessary.

• Depth rated – Most dive watches are water resistant with a depth rating of at least 100 metres (330 feet) – far deeper than the maximum depth for recreational scuba diving. Sports watches that are waterproof to shallower depths aren’t rated for scuba diving.
• Elapsed time at a glance – Analog watches use a unidirectional bezel that you rotate to align with the minute hand so you can read elapsed time directly from the bezel. Digital watches typically have a stopwatch function. Some analog watches also have a digital stop watch feature. Dive computer watches should display elapsed time automatically.

• Long strap or expanding bracelet to strap your watch over a wetsuit or dry suit sleeve.
• Self-wind or solar power.
• Illumination makes it easier to read in low light.
• Multifunction – Some dive watches are actually dive computers that provide no stop dive limit information. Others have depth gauges, thermometers, electronic compasses, tide predictors, and even dive log capabilities included.

Selecting a dive watch is a personal preference. If you’re going to wear a watch, it might as well be a dive watch. If you like the classic look of a mechanical or quartz analog watch, then your choices range from very inexpensive to some of the most expensive designer fashion watches made. If you prefer a digital watch, you’ll find a wide selection suited for scuba diving. You may decide to choose a dive computer that doubles as a watch, or may prefer this watch style as a good backup for your dive computer.

• Sheath with retainer to mount it on your equipment, such as on your BCD or back of your gauge console; or on you – strapped inside your leg or on your wrist. The sheath must hold your knife securely, yet allow you to release it with one hand.
• Sharp edge for cutting.

Dive Tool Styles

• Dive knife – a stainless steel or titanium knife, usually with a sharp cutting edge and a serrated (sawing) edge. They range in size from very compact to large.
• Dive tool – a dive knife with the sharp tip replaced with a prying tool.
• Dive shears – scissors, good for cutting monofilament line.
• Z-knives – specialized hooks with a blade for cutting fishing line or net.

• Titanium – very corrosion resistant and light
• Metal handle butt – On larger knifes, a metal handle butt doubles as a hammer or nice solid surface for rapping on your scuba tank.

1. Start by deciding where you will wear your dive knife or tool because this may dictate what size you’re looking for. If you travel a lot, a small knife or shears are your best bet.
2. Once you know placement and size range, handle a variety of knives at your PADI Dive Center or Resort.
   • Evaluate the grip in your hand. If you normally wear gloves while scuba diving, test the grip with gloves on.
   • Release the knife from the sheath and replace it several times to get a feel for how easy it is. Do this with gloves on, if appropriate and mounted where you plan to wear it, if possible.
3. Choose the best knife or tool based on the features that appeal to you.
4. Consider getting two tools – a dive knife and shears (or a Z-knife) if you dive in areas where you may encounter abandoned fishing line.

• All dry suits need a special watertight zipper. Suits with a zipper across the back of your shoulders may require the assistance of another person to get into and out of. There are many suits with zippers positioned for self-donning.
• Wrist and neck seals must fit snuggly against your skin to keep water out, but not too tight to avoid breathing or circulation issues.
• To add air as you descend and to release air as you ascend, your dry suit must have an inflator and an exhaust valve. Some suits have a wrist dump valve and others have shoulder or automatic dump valves.

Dry Suit Styles

• Neoprene dry suits are made of the same material as wetsuits, except they exclude water. They fit close to your body, provide excellent insulation and are really buoyant.
• Shell suits refer to the fact that the outer shell keeps you dry, but your wear undergarments underneath it to keep you warm– thicker undergarment for really cold water, or thin protection for temperate water.

• Kneepads, elbow pads and seat pads to better protect these areas of your dry suit.
• Pockets are useful for items like slates, and are usually located on the thigh.
• Some manufacturers offer the option of connecting a hood to your dry suit for extra warmth.
• Certain dry suit models have foot coverings that allow you to wear heavy-duty boots over them.

If you dive where the water or air temperature makes a dry suit necessary or desirable, don’t hesitate to get advice and help from a dive professional at your PADI Dive Center. Then, take the PADI Dry Suit Diver specialty course to learn about choosing, using and caring for dry suits.

1. Pick your dry suit style based on your local dive conditions and the advice of your dive professional.
2. Find the appropriate size, usually ranging from extra small to extra large. Choose what undergarments you will use and try on several suits with your undergarments on.
   • Undergarments made from Thinsulate^TM or Polartec^®, or similar synthetics, are relatively thin and provide effective insulation even when wet.
   • Many undergarments wick perspiration away from your skin. Look for garments that have an outer layer that is wind and water resistant.
3. Evaluate the fit including boot comfort, snug wrist and neck seal, ease of zipping, ease of pushing inflator and deflator buttons with gloves, and ease of moving around in.
4. Narrow down your choice by fit and comfort. Then, make the final decision based on style, color, optional features and personal preference. A dry suit is a big investment, so you want the right one. Don’t forget to also purchase your undergarments.

• After a dive, rinse your dry suit in fresh water, but make sure to close the zipper to avoid getting water inside. If there is already water inside, rinse the inside too.
• Flush water over and through the inflation and exhaust valves.
• Pay close attention to the zipper. If it’s dirty, gently clean it with a soft brush and soapy water.
• Hang your suit out of direct sunlight to dry. Dry the interior first, if you rinsed it, by gently turning it inside out.
• Lubricate the zipper as specified by the manufacturer.
• Store the suit gently folded up as recommended by the manufacturer. You can tuck latex seals into the suit arms and body to help protect them.
• If you need to launder the undergarment, follow the manufacturer’s instructions because some detergents may harm the insulation characteristics. Store undergarments on a wide hanger.

• Body suits are made from a variety of synthetic fabrics, such as Lycra^®, that offer lots of stretch, so the suit fits skintight. These fabrics are also designed to offer abrasion resistance.
• Some have plush inner linings that add a little warmth underwater and wind protection while on the surface.
• Many are colorful with choices ranging from bright solids to flower prints to funky camouflage patterns.
• Body suit styles allow you to cover a lot or just a little depending on your needs. Many are unisex because they stretch, but there are a few designed specifically for women or for men.
• Jumpsuits, or full-body suits, are the most popular because they completely cover your arms and legs. You’ll find foot stirrups and thumb loops on most models, which keep the suit in place while you slip on a wetsuit.
• Top-only suits (also known as rash guards) come in long sleeve, short sleeve or vest styles.
• Hooded vests are another top-only option and can be worn under a wetsuit.
• Bottoms come in shorts or long pants, and are usually used to make slipping into a wetsuit a little more comfortable.

Rinse in fresh water and dry thoroughly before storing it, preferably on a hanger. Your body suit may need washing with a mild soap every now and then if it starts to smell.

• Lead weight in various increments – molded to fit a weight belt, plain or vinyl coated, or lead shot in pouches.
• Quick release that allows you to quickly drop enough weight to float.

Weight System Styles

• Weight belts have existed since scuba diving began.The most common is a nylon belt with lead weights threaded on to it, though you can get fabric belts with pockets for more comfort.
• Integrated weights systems are built into your BCD. Two weight pockets on either side allows you to divide your weight. Many BCDs have trim pockets to place small weights to fine-tune your balance in the water.
• Trim weights are small lead shot filled tubes that easily clip around your ankle or wrap around your valve for added trim adjustment.

Choose your weight system based on your BCD.

1. If your BCD has weight-integrated pockets, then you already have your weight system – you just need to get the appropriate weight increments and amount.
2. If your BCD is not weight-integrated, then explore different weight belt styles – nylon belts, fabric belts with zippered pouches, or neoprene belts with VelcroTM pockets.
   • Try the belt on with the amount of weight you’ll use to scuba dive.
   • Position the weights for comfort. Ask your dive professional about weight keepers to hold weights in place on nylon belts.
   • Make sure you’re comfortable with fastening and releasing the buckle.
3. If you wear a dry suit, you may want both an integrated weight system and a weight belt. This redistributes your weight more evenly for maximum control and comfort.

• Ample blade size to provide adequate power, and made from either composite plastic or neoprene rubber.
• Comfortable foot pocket, usually made from neoprene rubber.

Fin Styles

• Open heel fins have an adjustable strap that allows you to snug your foot into the foot pocket. You need to wear wetsuit boots (booties) with these fins, which is necessary for colder water and great protection for your feet while walking on shore or a boat deck.
• Full-foot fins have a foot pocket that slips on like a shoe. These fins are popular for warm water diving, especially from boats.
• There are also hand fins, essentially webbed gloves used by divers who have a physical challenge that prevents them from using their legs.

• Open heel fins have a variety of strap and buckle choices.
  • Quick adjust buckles allow you to unlock the strap, then cinch it tighter by pulling on the strap end.
  • Quick release buckles usually combine the quick adjust feature with the ability to release the strap on one side to get out of the fin, and clip it back in when putting it back on.
  • Spring straps allow you slip them on and let the spring keep them snug.

• Blade shapes vary from the traditional fan-out design, to almost rectangular, to separated wings, to whale-tails. Features include vents, ribs and rails, channels or split fins that blades much like a fish.

1. Decide where you’ll dive the most. If it’s exclusively in the tropics off a boat, look at full-foot fins. Anywhere else, look at open heel adjustable fins.
2. Try on a few different fins at your local PADI Dive Center or Resort. Your foot should go all the way into the foot pocket without your toes touching. No pinching or uncomfortable areas.
3. Make your final choice based on color, features and personal preference. If you dive in both a wetsuit and a dry suit, you may need two pairs of fins. Dry suits have very large boots, which usually require a larger fin pocket.

• Mark your fins to avoid mix-ups on a busy boat or large group dive. Use a gear marker to put your name or initials inside the foot pocket. Be creative. Make a statement.
• Purchase a spare fin strap from your PADI dive shop. Unless you have nearly indestructible spring straps, other straps will eventually break.
• Rinse your fins in fresh water after each use and store them in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight. Check your fin straps regularly for tears; if you see one, you’ll need that spare strap.

• Comfortable mouthpiece, that fits you – not too small or big.
• Plastic tube with the proper diameter, length and shape to extend above your head and with smooth, rounded bends to avoid breathing resistance.
• Attachment system to your mask strap that’s adjustable for comfort.

1. Start by placing the snorkel in your mouth with the snorkel barrel against your left ear.
2. Evaluate how the mouthpiece feels – comfortable bite with relaxed jaw, lips seal against it without effort, no sharp edges against your gums, sits straight in your mouth.
3. Attach the snorkel to your mask. Put the mask on and then try the snorkel in your mouth. Adjust the snorkel angle and attachment as necessary for a comfortable fit.
4. Try several snorkels and make the final decision based on color, optional features and personal preference. Remember that fit and comfort are most important.

You should know how to attach your snorkel to your mask – how the clip, slot or snorkel keeper works so you can put it together at the dive site, if necessary.
Along with your mask, rinse your snorkel in fresh water after each use and store it in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight. Store it away from neoprene rubber to prevent staining of the silicone parts.

The PADI Junior Scuba Diver course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training and open water training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through the first 3 chapters of the PADI Open Water manual, complete the knowledge reviews and participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor. Once you have discussed any questions you may have, you will complete a quiz. During your Junior Scuba Diver course, you will write a total of 3 quizzes, all of which are multiple-choice.

Confined water training will take part in a swimming pool environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for this. During the confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you will use throughout the course and in your diving ventures after earning your certification. You will also be required to successfully pass a few water-related tasks, including a back float. Please keep in mind that these tasks are required to ensure that you are fit for scuba diving – you do not need to be an Olympic swimmer!
When you undergo the open water training, you will go out scuba diving in the sea with your instructor. In addition to completing the same skills you learned during your confined water training, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures. You’re going to love it!
Once you have completed all three sections of the Junior Scuba Diver course, you will receive a temporary Junior Scuba Diver certification card, which you can start using to dive with a PADI Professional right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for the duration of the course. We would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and a lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

The PADI Emergency First Response course is made up of two sections – knowledge development and practical skills training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through the PADI Emergency First Response manual. Once you have completed the knowledge reviews, you will participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor and discuss any questions you may have. Finally, you will complete a final exam that covers both the primary and secondary care chapters of your manual.
When you undergo the practical skills training, you will learn how to do CPR, provide care for injured individuals and manage various emergency situations. Depending on the specific Emergency First Response course you have enrolled in, you may also learn how to use an AED or provide care for injured children. The Emergency First Response course teaches valuable skills for anyone from parents and child caretakers to educators and business professionals.
Once you have completed both sections of the Emergency First Response course, you will receive a temporary Emergency First Response certification card, which you can start using right away! Your permanent card will about 30-45 days after you have been certified.
Since the PADI Emergency First Response course is about providing care in emergency situations, it is important to maintain your skills. To be considered a current Emergency First Responder, you will need to take a PADI Emergency First Response skills refresher course every 2 years.

The PADI Skin Diver course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training and an optional open water dive.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will participate in a discussion with your instructor, and will become familiarized with the equipment and techniques you will use during your course.
The confined water training will take part in a swimming pool or confined open water environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for this. During the confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you need to use during your skin diving adventures.
When you undergo the open water training, you will go out skin diving in the sea with your instructor. In addition to completing the same skills you learned during your confined water training, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures. You’re going to love it!
Once you have completed all three sections of the Skin Diver course, you will receive a temporary Skin Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for the duration of the course.

The PADI Skin Diver course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training, and an optional open water dive.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will participate in a discussion with your instructor, and will become familiarized with the equipment and techniques you will use during your course.
The confined water training will take part in a swimming pool or confined open water environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for this. During the confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you need to use during your skin diving adventures.
When you undergo the open water training, you will go out skin diving in the sea with your instructor. In addition to completing the same skills you learned during your confined water training, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures. You’re going to love it!
Once you have completed all three sections of the Skin Diver course, you will receive a temporary Skin Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, and snorkel for the duration of the course.

The PADI Junior Rescue Diver course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training and open water training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through all the chapters in the PADI Rescue Diver manual. Once you have completed the knowledge reviews, you will participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor and discuss any questions you may have. Upon completing the manual, you will write a final exam, which will test your knowledge on important concepts you have learned through the course. This exam is multiple choice. You will also create an emergency assistance plan for the location for your open water training.
Confined water training will take part in a swimming pool environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins, snorkel and CPR pocket mask for this. During the confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you will use throughout the course and possibly later during your diving adventures  if the situation requires it.

When you undergo the open water training, you will complete the same skills you learned during your confined water training, however this time, they will be combined into rescue scenarios. Although the Junior Rescue Diver course is a bit of a challenge, it is also one of the most enriching and enjoyable PADI courses available!Once you have you completed all three sections of the PADI Junior Rescue Diver course, you will receive a temporary PADI Junior Rescue Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified. 

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, snorkel, dive knife/tool, compass, CPR pocket mask and dive computer (or timing device and eRDPML/RDP Table) for the duration of the course. We would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

The PADI Junior Advanced Open Water course is made up of two sections – knowledge development and open water training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through 5 chapters in the PADI Advanced Open Water manual, including both Deep and Underwater Navigation. Once you have completed the knowledge reviews, you will participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor and discuss any questions you may have.
When you undergo open water training, you will try 5 different types of specialized scuba diving in the sea with your instructor, including a deep dive and an underwater navigation dive. In addition, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures.
Once you have completed both sections of the Junior Advanced Open Water course, you will receive a temporary Junior Advanced Open Water Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, snorkel, dive knife/tool, compass, and dive computer (or timing device and eRDPML/RDP Table) for the duration of the course. For students completing a night dive, an underwater light is required as well. We would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

The PADI Junior Adventure Diver course is made up of two sections – knowledge development and open water training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through 3 chapters in the PADI Advanced Open Water manual, including both Deep and Underwater Navigation. Once you have completed the knowledge reviews, you will participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor and discuss any questions you may have.
When you undergo open water training, you will try 3 different types of specialized scuba diving in the sea with your instructor, including a deep dive and an underwater navigation dive. In addition, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures.
Once you have you completed both sections of the Junior Adventure Diver course, you will receive a temporary Junior Adventure Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, snorkel, dive knife/tool, compass, and dive computer (or timing device and eRDPML/RDP Table) for the duration of the course. For students completing a night dive, an underwater light is required as well. We would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and a lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

The PADI Junior Open Water Diver course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training and open water training.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will work through the PADI Open Water manual, complete the knowledge reviews and participate in a review session for each chapter with your instructor. Once you have discussed any questions you may have, you will complete a quiz. Upon completing the manual, you will write a final exam, which will test your knowledge on important concepts you have learned through the course. During your Open Water Diver course, you will write a total of 4 quizzes and 1 final exam, all of which are multiple-choice.
The confined water training will take part in a swimming pool environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for this. During the confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you will use throughout the course and in your diving ventures after earning your certification. You will also be required to successfully pass a few water-related tasks, including a continuous swim of any swim stroke, and a back float. Please keep in mind that these tasks are required to ensure that you are fit for scuba diving – you do not need to be an Olympic swimmer!
When you undergo the open water training, you will go out scuba diving in the sea with your instructor. In addition to completing the same skills you learned during your confined water training, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures. You’re going to love it!
Once you have you completed all three sections of the Open Water Diver course, you will receive a temporary Junior Open Water Diver certification card, which you can start using right away! You will receive your permanent card about 30-45 days after you have been certified.

You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for the duration of the course. We would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and  lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

The PADI Discover Scuba Diving course is made up of three sections – knowledge development, confined water training, and an optional open water dive.
During the knowledge development section of the course, you will participate in a discussion with your instructor, and will become familiarized with the equipment, techniques and hand signals you will use during your course.
The confined water training will take part in a swimming pool or confined open water environment. You will be required to have your own mask, fins and snorkel for this. During confined water training, you will be introduced to various skills that you need to use during your experience.
If you opt to undergo the optional open water dive, you will go out scuba diving in the sea with your instructor. In addition to completing the same skills you learned during your confined water training, you will also tour the dive site and become more familiar with some of Qatar’s aquatic creatures. You’re going to love it!
And, if you decide you would like to continue your scuba diving adventures, you can use your Discover Scuba Diving experience to credit towards your PADI Open Water Diver Course! 

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, and snorkel for the duration of the course. If you will be diving in the sea we would also recommend that you have a suitable exposure suit – a wetsuit during the winter months to protect your body from the cold and a lycra, or skinsuit for the summer months to protect your body from jellyfish stings and scrapes.

During your Seal Team program, you will learn about the aquatic environment, how to perform simple scuba diving skills and take part in specific types of diving like navigation, buoyancy and underwater photography. You will also learn responsibility for your equipment and be able to meet new friends!
Once you have you completed the first 5 AquaMissions, you will be certified as a Seal Team member. When you have completed all 15 AquaMissions, you will be certified as a Master Seal Team Member!

You will be required to have your own mask, fins, and snorkel for the duration of the course. 

The PADI Bubblemaker experience consists of a single confined water dive. During the briefing before the dive, you will learn about the equipment and basic techniques you will use during your scuba diving experience. Once you have completed the briefing, you will be able to explore the world of scuba diving with your instructor.
Upon completion of the experience, you will receive a Bubblemaker certification card and certificate!

You will be required to have your own mask and fins for the duration of the course.

Your role as an EFR Instructor is to be a coach that creates a positive learning environment. Along with learning how to structure and organize EFR courses, you practice:

• Presenting course content.
• Encouraging self-discovery in students.
• Evaluating student understanding and skill mastery during hands-on skills practice.
• Managing effective scenario-based learning experiences.

You may be able to get college credit for the Emergency First Response Instructor course.

Visit your local PADI dive shop to pick up an EFR Instructor Start-up Kit that includes a complete set of instructional materials. Start learning immediately by completing the self-study knowledge reviews in the instructor guide. Your EFR Instructor Trainer will schedule practical sessions to complete your training.

Over a minimum of five days, but usually more like seven, the IDC teaches you to conduct all PADI core courses. You’ll be able to organize and present information, conduct skill development sessions and control open water dives. Basically, you become a better public speaker and get really good at demonstrating skills while watching out for student diver safety. Key topics include:

• PADI Standards and Procedures for courses you can teach with in water workshops
• Learning, Instruction and the PADI System
• Risk Management and Diver Safety
• The Business of Diving and your role as an instructor
• Marketing Diving and Sales Counseling

You may be able to get college credit or the Assistant Instructor course and Instructor Development Course.

Register for IDC Online – PADI’s eLearning option that lets you study independently at your own pace before class. There are nine interactive knowledge development sections. Prestudy online saves classroom time, which allows more time for practicing the skills that distinguish you as a PADI Instructor.

Also, sign up for Dive Theory Online, if you haven’t already completed it or it’s been more than a year since you went through it. The program is a straightforward review of dive physics, physiology, skills, equipment and environment, plus using the Recreational Dive Planner (RDP). By successfully completing Dive Theory Online, you can get credit for the dive theory exam requirement during your IDC.

Visit a PADI Five Star Instructor Development Center or Resort to ask about an IDC.

Also, view the Instructor Development Calendar.

You’ll learn new techniques to add to the experience you already have in a specialty area and have fun fine-tuning your skills and teaching methods. Plus, you’ll get great ideas for marketing your specialty diver courses.

Visit your local PADI Five Star Instructor Development Center or Resort to purchase a PADI Specialty Instructor Manual – digital or paper version. The manual includes all standardized specialty instructor guides.

• Underwater housing – Although some cameras are water resistant to very shallow depths, none can perform at scuba diving depths without an underwater housing to protect them from water and pressure. There are camera housings that mount on masks, and others that can be attached almost anywhere.

Underwater Camera Styles

• Point-and-shoot – Compact, easy-to-use cameras designed for casual, fun pictures or videos. Smartphones and tablets fall into this category with the release of underwater housings for many models.
• dSLRs – Digital SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras are for those who are serious about photography. They have multiple lenses and other accessories that make shooting more productive and convenient.
• Full-featured – These cameras bridge the gap between point-and-shoot and dSLRs by offering a moderately compact, easy-to-use camera with many features of a dSLR.

• Manual white balance – Allows you to adjust for more realistic color.
• External flash – A separate strobe underwater provides more light from a better angle.
• Full control access –The more controls your housing provides, the more options you have while shooting.
• Wide-angle adapter – This allows you to use a wide-angle lens. Nearly all dSLR systems have this capability.
• Large memory card – You want enough capacity to shoot as much as you can on a single dive without concern about running out of memory.

Start by taking the PADI Digital Underwater Photographer course, which helps you determine which system best suits your needs and interests. Along with enlisting the help of the photo pro at your local PADI Dive Shop or Resort, here are a few suggestions:

1. Ask yourself why you want to take underwater images, and of what?
2. If you already have a camera you enjoy using, check if an underwater housing exists for it. If not, shop for your camera, housing, lenses and strobes or other accessories together.
3. Consider all the features starting with size. Then consider how much control you want, not just now, but as your passion for underwater imaging grows.
4. Make sure your personal computer and software will work with your camera system and matches your interest in editing photos.

• Have a camera bag or padded case to protect your imaging gear.
• Use a port cover to protect the lens port before getting in the water and as soon as you get out, before your housing goes into the rinse bucket.
• After a dive, rinse the system thoroughly in fresh water, ideally by swishing it back and forth in a clean rinse bucket.
• Thoroughly dry the housing before opening it. You also need to be dry so you don’t drip water into the housing and onto your camera.
• Store your camera system in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. If you won’t be using it for a while, remove large o-rings from housing and remove batteries from the camera.

• Rugged case that is watertight and pressure proof.
• A dependable switch that is easy to turn on and off, even when wearing gloves.
• Watertight o-ring seal(s) that give you access to the batteries and the bulb.
• Many lights come with a wrist lanyard or clip so that, even if you accidentally let go, the light is retrievable.

Dive Light Styles

Primary lights are generally large models with powerful, wide beams, however, you can also find very bright small lights. Backup lights are usually smaller with narrower beams – something you might carry on every dive and definitely on night dives so you don’t end up without a light if your primary light fails.

• Batteries are either rechargeable or disposable.
  • Initially, rechargeable systems cost more, but will pay for themselves if you use your dive light often and are a better choice environmentally.
  • High-quality disposable batteries are great for a dive light you only use occasionally.
• Bulbs and battery power influence a light’s brightness.
  • Halogen and xenon bulbs produce bright light but consume a lot of battery power.
  • LED (light emitting diode) bulbs are highly durable and energy efficient.
  • HID (high intensity discharge) bulbs provide twice as much light from half as much battery.
• A handle or mount allows you to comfortably carry your light either in your hand or attached to your dive equipment. Some small lights mount on your mask, your wrist, a hose, your camera strobe or anywhere else you can think of to mount a light.
• Multiple power modes are available in some lights to make the best use of battery power.
• For night diving, divers also use chemical glow sticks, underwater strobes or other small marker lights for safety.

1. Decide where you’ll likely use your light the most an how often. Then think about how diligent you’ll be taking care of the batteries.
2. Pick up and carry a few lights around. It’s best if they have batteries in them, but realize that they’ll be lighter in the water.
   • Evaluate the grip for your hand.
   • Test how easy it is for you to turn it on and off.
   • Think about how comfortable it will be to hold the light for an hour-long night dive.
3. Consider other special features, such as included lanyards or multiple power modes, and then choose the best light for your dive needs. Ask the dive professional at your PADI Dive Center or Resort for help. Get a good light – you won’t regret it.

Empty and rinse your dive bag after each use, and allow it to thoroughly dry before storing.

• Wetsuits are made from closed-cell neoprene with large, uniform bubbles that provide good insulating qualities. The neoprene is usually coated or lined with fabric or sprays to add strength and color, plus make it easier to slide into. Bare neoprene on the inside doesn’t slide on as easily, but does minimize water circulation within the suit.
• Wetsuit thickness is primary to warmth. Thicknesses start at 1 millimetre (mm) and progress up to 9 mm, with the most common being 3 mm (warm water), 5 mm (temperate water) and 7 mm (cold water) or a combination of these.

Wetsuit Styles

Style is also important to warmth and versatility.

• Shorties are one-piece suits that generally have short sleeves and thigh- or knee-length legs and cover your torso with around 3 mm of neoprene.
• Full body suits (jumpers or steamers) cover your arms and legs. They usually have either a long front or back zipper. They come with a variety of thicknesses for different water temperatures.
• Two-piece wet suits are popular because when you use the pieces together, you get double the insulation. You can also use the pieces separately, so you get two suits in one.

• An attached hood prevents cold water from flowing in through your wetsuit collar as you swim.
• Wrist and ankle seals minimize water entry and circulation inside a wetsuit.
• Ankle and wrist zippers make getting into and out of your wetsuit easier.
• A spine pad fills in the channel made by your spine, which reduces water flow. Lumbar or kidney pads protect your lower back.
• Kneepads are common, but you can also get elbow pads. Many suits have special anti-abrasion material on the shoulders and in the seat.
• Preshaped arms and legs (bent knees and elbows) add comfort and prevent the neoprene from having to stretch so much as you move around, which reduces wear and tear.
• Pockets are good for carrying things like slates or keys. Pockets usually are placed on wetsuit thighs, calves or arms. Some suits also have interior key pockets.

1. The dive professional at your PADI Dive Center or Resort will ask you where you plan to dive most to determine what style of wetsuit will work of you.
2. Find the appropriate size and try on several suits.
3. Take your time. Pulling a wetsuit on for the first time may take a little effort – so work your way through it without rushing. However, if it’s a real struggle, perhaps you need a larger size.
4. Evaluate the fit. A wetsuit should be snug, but not overly tight. There should be no big gaps anywhere.
5. Narrow down your choice by fit and comfort. Then, make the final decision based on style, color, optional features and personal preference. A wetsuit is an investment that should last for several years, so choose wisely.
6. If you just can’t find a wetsuit that fits well, it’s possible to order a custom one that’s measured and made specifically for you. Ask your PADI dive shop staff about custom suits.

You need to rinse, dry and carefully store your wet suit after diving. It may occasionally need a good wash and there are special wetsuit soaps available for the job. Store your wetsuit on a wide plastic or wooden hanger to avoid creasing in the shoulders. If you must fold it, do so gently with the zipper on top, or as directed by the manufacturer.

• Easy to read and understand, because you use your SPG constantly during a dive to monitor your air supply.
• Securely attached so you can quickly and easily find it. Plus, you don’t want your SPG dangling, causing drag, hitting sensitive aquatic life or becoming damaged.

• Some air-integrated dive computers evaluate your breathing rate and estimate how long your air will last.
• Some air-integrated dive computers use hoseless SPG technology that sends pressure readings from a transmitter on your regulator first stage to the dive computer on your wrist.
• Gauge consoles group your SPG, dive computer or depth gauge, and your compass in one handy component.

It’s logical to select your SPG when investing in your regulator, or complete scuba package, and have it attached by the dive professional at your PADI dive shop. If looking at mechanical gauges, be sure to purchase the measuring system you’re used to – bar (metric) or psi (imperial).

• Cylinder made of either steel or aluminum alloy, although other composites are possible.
  • Steel cylinders are tough and resistant to external damage, but need proper care to avoid internal rust. They are negatively buoyant. The highest capacity cylinders are steel.
  • Aluminum cylinders are more susceptible to external dents, dings and scratches than steel cylinders, but better resist internal corrosion.
• A valve controls the flow of air from the tank and connects to your regulator with either a DIN (screw in) or yoke (bracket) system. An o-ring seals your regulator to the tank valve.
  • Single tank valves, made of chrome-plated brass, are most common.
  • Technical divers may use dual-cylinder manifolds or use a Y-valves or H-valves to connect two regulators to one cylinder.
  • Many valves have a burst disk – a thin copper disk – that will rupture, letting air escape if the tank pressure rises too high.
• A current visual inspection decal shows that the tank has been professionally checked for internal and external corrosion within the past year.
• Tanks require periodic pressure (hydrostatic) testing. The interval between tests varies in different regions ranging from two to seven years.

• A cylinder’s size and pressure rating determines its capacity.
  • Tanks from North America have capacities that range from 6 to 40 cubic foot pony bottles (reserve cylinders) to 45 to 150+ cubic foot main cylinders.
  • In metric system countries, cylinders range from 1 to 4 litre pony bottles (reserve cylinders) to 6 to 15+ litre main cylinders.
• Tanks used with enriched air need to meet oxygen service standards and require distinct green and yellow markings to identify what’s in them. Interested? Take a PADI Enriched Air Diver course.
• Cylinder boots – either plastic, vinyl or rubber – allow tanks with rounded bottoms to stand during storage and help protect surfaces from damage by tanks.
• Other accessories for cylinders include mesh protectors that slide over the cylinder, valve covers that help keep water and dust out of the valve opening, and handles and carriers that make hauling your tank a little easier.

Whether you own one tank, multiple cylinders or none depends on your dive activities and location. To select the right cylinder for you, think about size and capacity.

1. Larger is usually better, unless you’re a smaller person and have to carry the tank a long way. Ask the dive professional at your PADI Dive Center or Resort for advice.
2. Once you know the size you want, then choose steel or aluminum.
3. Choose a yoke or DIN valve, based on your regulator.
4. Think about a tank boot or mesh protector, and get extra o-rings.
5. Make sure your new tank has a visual inspection decal, or an enriched air inspection decal (if you plan to use it for enriched air diving).

• Always block or secure your tank so it can’t fall over easily or roll around, which can damage it, other equipment or you.
• Besides rinsing your cylinder and valve with fresh water and storing it in a cool place, don’t allow it to completely empty – always store it with air inside to keep moisture out.
• Have your tank visually inspected annually and pressure tested as required.
• Follow maintenance considerations according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• First stage – Attaches to the scuba tank valve, reduces tank air pressure to an intermediate pressure and routes it to several hoses.
• Second stage – Mouthpiece you breathe from. Also called a demand valve because it gives you air when you demand it (inhale) at the exact pressure you need for breathing comfortably.
• Alternate air source – Spare mouthpiece that provides an easy way to share air in case you need to help another diver. Sometimes the alternate second stage is built into the inflator on your buoyancy control device (BCD).
• Low-pressure BCD inflator – Connected to the first stage by a low-pressure hose. If you wear a dry suit, you’ll have another inflator hose connected to it.
• SPG (submersible pressure gauge) – Connected to a high pressure port on your first stage so that it can sense exactly how much air pressure you have remaining in your tank.

• Regulators connect to cylinder valves with either a DIN (screw in) or yoke (bracket) system. There are adapters to make DIN regulators work with a yoke valve.
• Environmental seals keeps salt, sediment and other contaminants from entering the first stage, and helps prevent the internal components from freezing in cold temperatures.
• Most regulators can be used with enriched air (EANx), but some manufacturers require their regulators to meet oxygen service standards for use with gas above 22 percent oxygen.
• Adjustable second stages allow you to fine-tune breathing so it’s always as easy as possible.
• A dive/predive switch makes your second stage temporarily less sensitive so it doesn’t free-flow.
• An under-the-arm hose option for the second stage is available for a few models.
• Different mouthpieces, exhaust tees and hoses are also options.

The scuba regulators you’ll find in a PADI Dive Center or Resort are all good products. The key is to choose a regulator that offers the performance you need for the environments where you’ll dive, and can be easily serviced at your local dive operation.

1. Have your PADI Dive Center staff show you top-of-the-line regulators that meet your needs.
2. Know whether DIN or yoke connections are typical for tanks in your area, and look for the same connection on your regulator.
3. Evaluate all the items that will be part of your regulator package to make sure there are enough ports on the first stage in the right configuration.
4. Ask to have your top regulator choices hooked up to a tank to test how they breathe. Check out the mouthpiece fit.
5. After trying a few regulators, pick the best one, or best complete package, based on what works for you.

• Your regulator with all attachments should be assembled and checked by a dive professional at your PADI Dive Center or Resort.
• Register the warranty with the manufacturer immediately.
• Invest in clips to prevent hoses from dangling and hose protectors for all hoses to increase the hose life.
• Gently rinse your scuba regulator in fresh water as soon as possible after diving. Make sure you put the first stage dust cover firmly in place. Don’t press the purge button while rinsing.
• Let your regulator dry completely, out of direct sunlight.
• When storing, allow the hoses to form large, gentle curves rather than tight loops or bends. Keep flat if possible.
• Have your regulator professionally serviced according to the manufacturer’s specifications, or sooner if you see signs of damage, it begins to breathe hard or leak air. Ask your PADI Dive Center or Resort to send you a reminder when it’s time for scheduled servicing.

• Expandable bladder
• Low-pressure inflator and oral inflation mechanism
• Deflator mechanism and overpressure valve
• Adjustable straps, buckles, bands or releases
• Adjustable tank band and sturdy back plate

BCD Styles

• Jacket style – most popular for recreational scuba diving. Some made specifically for women.
• Wing (back-mount) style
• Traveling BCDs – made of lighter materials
• Technical diving systems combine wing-style bladders with harness setups
• Sidemount divers combine a back wing with a harness system that mounts tanks to your sides.

• Integrated weight system
• D-rings, clips and hose retainers
• Pockets
• Alternate inflator regulator combines your alternate air source with the BCD inflator

Choose your BCD based on where you’ll use it most, and then make sure it fits.

1. With a style in mind, try on the BCD for size. If in doubt, try on a few sizes. If you’ll wear a dry suit or thick wetsuit, consider wearing it to get the right fit.
2. While wearing the BCD (and maybe gloves if you usually dive with them):
   • Tighten and loosen, clip and unclip every strap and release on the BCD.
   • Play with the inflator and deflator mechanisms.
   • Orally inflate the BCD completely and make sure it’s still comfortable, not restrictive.
3. Check that the BCD’s inflator hose is compatible with your regulator setup.
4. After trying on a few BCDs, narrow down your choice by fit and comfort. Then, make the final decision based on style, color, optional features and personal preference.

A BCD is an investment that should last for several years, so don’t sacrifice fit and comfort for price.

1. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use – both outside and inside.
2. Let the BCD dry completely – out of direct sunlight as much as possible.
3. Partially inflate the BCD and store in a cool and dry place. Don’t leave weights in the weight pockets.

• Tempered-glass lens for safety, or lenses made from really strong, high-quality composite materials.
• Comfortable, feathered, double-skirt made of soft silicone rubber.
• Enclosed nose so that you can adjust for pressure changes by exhaling.
• Finger pockets around your nose so that you can equalize your ears.
• Low profile for easier clearing of water and a wider vision field.
• Adjustable strap that can be locked in place.

With the wide variety of masks available today, it will be more difficult to decide which one you like best rather than finding one that fits and is comfortable.

• Hold the mask gently against your face with the strap looped in front, out of the way.
• Gently inhale through your nose. If the mask stays there – no air leaking in and you don’t have to continuously suck in through your nose – then it should create a seal for you.
• Check to see that the mask skirt rests evenly against your face along the entire edge. Mustaches and beards make finding a good seal a little more difficult, but still possible.
• Adjust the strap, put the mask on and evaluate how the mask feels on your face – it should be comfortable.
• If you can, attach a snorkel to the mask and put the mouthpiece in, or put a scuba regulator in your mouth. This should not significantly change how the mask fits.
• Try pinching your nose.
• Look around – straight ahead, up, down, sideways – to see if there are any annoying blind spots.
• Try on several masks and narrow down your choices by fit and comfort. Don’t sacrifice fit and comfort for price.

• Most new masks’ lenses need a scrub before use because the glass gets stuff on it during manufacturing. The dive center staff and the manufacturer will have various recommendations.
• Before every dive, apply a defog solution to your mask lens.
• Be familiar with your mask strap adjustment and locking device so that you can make quick adjustments at the dive site, if necessary.
• Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use. Keep out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Store in a cool, dry place.
• Keep your clear silicone out of contact with anything neoprene, like black scuba fins, because neoprene leaches into the silicone and discolors it.

• Inflatable signal tubes – These brightly colored inflatable tubes – usually orange or yellow – stand more than a metre/yard above the surface to make you more visible. They are required equipment in many areas worldwide and highly recommended everywhere else. They roll up compactly and fit in your BCD pocket when not in use.
• Delayed Surface Marker Buoys (DSMBs) – Similar to inflatable signal tubes, DSMBs are attached to a line and reel and can be deployed from underwater or at the surface.
• Signal mirror – By reflecting sunlight with your mirror, you can attract attention and even signal an airplane overhead. A small signal mirror easily fits in your BCD pocket.
• Signal lights and flashers – Although most effective at night, lights and flashers can also be used to gain attention at the surface.

Audible Surface Signaling Device Styles

• Whistles – A whistle, like the PADI Whistle, is small, easy to carry and effective, which makes it the most common audible surface signaling device. It’s standard practice to attach your whistle to your BCD inflator hose where it’s easy to find if needed. The sound from a two-toned whistle carries a long way over water.
• Air horns – These devices use air from your tank to make a noise usually much louder than a whistle. There are a variety of different styles available that usually attach to your BCD inflator hose. Because you need air in your tank to use them, it’s a good idea to also have a standard whistle.

The great thing about choosing a surface signaling device is that you can’t have too many for safety. Considering that you should have at least two – one audible and one visual – you may start with a whistle and inflatable signal tube or DSMB (if required in your area). If you’ll dive in more remote destinations, add a signal mirror and air horn to your kit. Ask the dive professional at your local PADI dive shop about which devices divers use in the local area.

In the PADI Freediver Instructor Trainer Course, you cover these key topics:

• PADI Freediver Instructor course standards and procedures
• Learning and instruction theory
• Evaluation, counseling and coaching approaches

In the PADI Freediver Instructor Training Course, over a minimum of four days, during both classroom and inwater sessions, you cover these key topics:

• PADI Freediver course standards and procedures
• Learning and Instruction
• Teaching Skills and Supervising Freedivers
• Safety and Risk Management
• Freediving Physiology and Psychology
• Organizing and Marketing Freediving

In the PADI Freediver Instructor Orientation, which may be conducted in person or as a webinar over a few hours, you cover these key topics:

• PADI Freediver course standards and procedures
• Organizing and Marketing Freediving

For both program, there is also a Care for the Environment topic and a written final exam.

Visit your local PADI Freediver Center to pick up a PADI Freediver Instructor Start-up Kit that includes a complete set of instructional materials. Start learning immediately by reading through the PADI Freediver Program Instructor Guide. Your PADI Freediver Instructor Trainer will schedule sessions to complete your training.

Along with learning how to guide divers through meticulous dive planning and execution of 100 metre/300 foot dives, you’ll fine-tune your ability to configure and use four different offboard bailout systems and practice different emergency scenarios at depth. During workshops, confined water sessions, open water dives and practice teaching segments, you’ll demonstrate that you have role model attitude, knowledge, practical ability and tec CCR skills.

Building on your Tec 40 CCR Instructor course, you’ll learn how to evaluate diver readiness for the challenge and potential risks of diving a Type T CCR to 60 metres/200 feet. During practical application sessions and open water dives, you’ll hone your extended range CCR diving skills and learn how to organize and control dives with multiple decompression stops using trimix/heliox as a diluent. The focus is on the specific Type T CCR you’re using, but you can qualify on additional Type T CCRs through a shorter additional unit qualifying program.

Through knowledge development, practical applications and inwater presentations, you’ll sharpen your skills and learn how to adapt the Tec 40 CCR course to your local environment. The focus is on the specific Type T CCR you’re using, but you can qualify on additional Type T CCRs through a shorter additional unit qualifying program. You’ll also learn how to promote the Tec 40 CCR Diver course, which is key to getting a return on the time and money you’ve invested in reaching this level.

If you aren’t a certified Tec Sidemount Diver, then your Tec Sidemount Instructor course will include the entire Tec Sidemount Diver course. You’ll not only get to practice all the skills, but will also get the chance to present knowledge development, confined water and open water teaching segments. Your Tec Sidemount Instructor Trainer will make sure you’re ready to teach the course and also provide ideas for organizing and marketing your tec sidemount courses.

You begin your training by reviewing the Tec Trimix course content and practical skills. Then, you complete multiple practice teaching scenarios in the classroom and in the water to ensure you know how to cover all the materials, organize skill practice and control open water dives.

Since you’re already a gas blender, the course reviews your knowledge of gas blending procedures to make sure that you not only understand them, but can explain critical information to others. You also demonstrate step-by-step oxygen cleaning procedures, practice teaching segments of the course and create different gas blends.

If you aren’t a certified tec diver, then your instructor course will include the entire Tec 40, 45 and 50 Diver courses as necessary. In fact, the first part of the course makes sure you have a good grasp of the knowledge and skills required for technical deep diving. During the second part of the course, you practice conducting knowledge development, practical application and open water teaching segments. Your Tec Deep Instructor Trainer will also go over organization and marketing considerations for TecRec courses.

If you aren’t a certified tec diver, then your Tec Instructor course will include the entire Tec 40 and 45 Diver course. Part One of the course focuses on the knowledge and skills required for technical deep diving. Part Two fine-tunes your ability to conduct knowledge development, practical application and open water teaching segments. You’ll also go over the philosophy, organization and marketing considerations for technical diver training.

After your application is approved, you start your training by completing several online presentations, knowledge reviews and a Course Director-level exam on PADI Systems, Standards and Procedures.
The actual CDTC lasts nine days and consists of staff presentations about how to organize and promote instructor development, plus many hands-on workshops in class, confined water and open water with a focus on evaluation training, professional development and counseling techniques.

You may be able to get college credit for the Course Director Training Course.

PADI IDC Staff Instructor who have been PADI Instructors for at least two years are on the way to earning the Master Instructor rating. Other requirements include:

• • Issued 150 PADI certifications at various levels.

• • Participated in three PADI Seminars.

• • Issued 10 Emergency First Response course completion cards.

• • Used the complete PADI System of diver education, including all appropriate PADI training materials, when conducting PADI programs.

• • Demonstrated support of the PADI organization and have no verified Quality Management violations within the past six months.

After a preassessment of your instructor-level knowledge of dive theory, exemplary dive skills and role-model presentation techniques, you’ll participate in these sessions:

• • Instructor development standards, procedures and curriculum

• • How to organize and conduct the PADI Assistant Instructor course

• • The psychology of evaluation and counseling

• • Evaluating knowledge development, confined water and open water teaching presentations

Plus, you’ll get to audit an IDC or practice teaching many curriculum components.

As an IDC Staff Instructor, you can independently teach PADI Assistant Instructor courses as well as assist with IDCs and other instructor-level continuing education courses.

Visit your local PADI Five Star Instructor Development Center or Resort and speak with a PADI Course Director.

The PADI Adaptive Techniques Specialty course focuses on increasing awareness of varying abilities, and explores adaptive teaching techniques to apply when training and diving with physically and mentally challenged divers.

The PADI Adaptive Techniques Specialty course will help PADI Professionals:

• • Become more aware and mindful of individual considerations when introducing people with disabilities to diving or freediving.

• • Explore adaptive techniques that can be applied while supervising and training divers or freedivers with disabilities in PADI courses and programs.

• • Properly counsel and direct student divers, based on their abilities, toward PADI certification, PADI experience programs or a disabilities-dedicated diving organization for limited certification programs.

• • Learn additional techniques to motivate and encourage student divers with mental and/or physical challenges.

The course consists of knowledge development, two confined water skill development workshops and two open water workshops. In addition, a subset of this course, PADI Adaptive Support Diver, will interest divers who want to learn how they can best support dive buddies who have physical or mental challenges.

Along with your basic scuba or freediving equipment, your PADI Instructor may suggest additional gear to assist with your divers’ needs.

Visit your PADI Dive Center, Resort or Freediver Center to enroll in the course and schedule the first class session with your PADI Instructor.